Vulcain Watches Review: Collections, Quality, and My Recommendations

Vulcain Watches Review: Collections, Quality, and My Recommendations

 · Maté D.

Vulcain interests me because its best-known feature is something I rarely see on a modern watch shortlist: a mechanical alarm. The Cricket gives the brand a reason to exist beyond another attractive vintage-inspired dial. Yet an alarm watch is only one way into the range. I could just as easily be drawn to a compact Skindiver or the quiet charm of a Grand Prix.

The useful question is which part of Vulcain’s personality I want on my wrist. This guide covers every watch collection in the current official menu, including the Cricket and Skindiver subcollections. I have also separated the two Grand Prix displays, with 12 representative watches to show what each part of the range offers.

My Skindiver Chronograph Black review explores that specific watch in greater depth. The other selections reflect my assessment of the designs and official specifications; I have not personally tested every watch here.

Jump to Cricket, Nautical Heritage, Skindiver, Grand Prix, Monopusher, Chrono 70’s, or my recommendations.

Vulcain At A Glance

What I Would Want To KnowThe Short Answer
BackgroundSwiss brand founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1858; manufacture now in Le Locle
Signature featureThe Cricket mechanical alarm, introduced in 1947
My everyday starting pointSkindiver Nautique for sportier use; Grand Prix for a dressier look
My pick for the brand’s characterCricket Tradition Eggshell
Featured price rangeCHF 1,190 for Grand Prix to CHF 6,200 for Cricket Titane
Main strengthsDistinctive alarm watches, appealing vintage designs, and several compact case options
Main reservationsShorter reserves in some automatics, substantial thickness in the Nautical, and uneven availability

Prices are the official CHF storefront prices for the exact configurations shown, checked October 15, 2026. Regional pricing, taxes, and delivery terms can differ. All product links go directly to Vulcain. Chrono 70’s remains in the catalog but was entirely sold out at this check; its card is included for reference.

My Verdict: Are Vulcain Watches Worth Considering?

Yes, particularly if the design or the alarm is what makes me want the watch. The Cricket is the strongest reason to investigate Vulcain specifically. A watch that audibly calls for attention is more interesting to me than another complication I might rarely use. I would still want to hear it in person and learn the winding routine before spending several thousand francs on that attraction.

For a more straightforward purchase, I would start with the Skindiver Nautique or Grand Prix. Both offer a clear visual identity without requiring the Cricket budget. The chronographs add another worthwhile choice: the Skindiver winds automatically, while the Monopusher and Chrono 70’s ask for manual winding.

My main reservation is that appealing vintage proportions do not always mean a thin watch. Even the simple Grand Prix is listed at 12.7mm thick, and the triple-caseback Nautical is much deeper. I would buy the watch that fits my wrist and routine, rather than assume the next model up in price is the better choice.

A Little History And Context

Vulcain’s history starts with the Ditisheim manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1858. The 1947 Cricket made the mechanical alarm central to its identity, while its association with American presidents became a lasting part of the brand’s story. The Nautical followed in 1961, taking the alarm idea into a very different kind of watch.

Today, Vulcain describes its manufacture in Le Locle. I would distinguish its Cricket manufacture calibers from the supplied movements elsewhere in the catalog. An ETA-powered Skindiver and a V10 Cricket can both be appealing, but they offer different reasons to spend the money.

Cricket: The Reason I Would Look At Vulcain First

The Cricket’s attraction is the alarm itself. Vulcain describes a hammer striking a pin, with the caseback helping amplify the sound. In the V10, separate barrels power the watch and alarm. That means the alarm has its own winding requirement; it is not a battery-powered reminder hiding inside a mechanical watch.

The current choices are President, Tradition, Classique, and Titane. I would treat the first three primarily as different presentations of the V10 idea, with size, dial, and caseback options affecting the reference and price.

Cricket President

The President is the one I would try for a dressier, more restrained Cricket. The applied markers and pointed hands give it a cleaner appearance than the numeral-heavy Tradition and Classique.

My pick is the blue 36mm model on black calfskin, with a steel caseback. I like the dial color as a small departure from a conventional black dress watch. The same product page offers 39mm and display-back configurations at higher prices, so the starting price does not apply to every combination. The selected blue model is also described as a limited edition on its official page.

Vulcain Cricket President Blue 36mm 100172A30.BAN301 — Blue; black alligator-print calfskin
  • Reference: 100172A30.BAN301
  • Movement: V10 hand-wound alarm; 52 hours
  • Case: 36 mm; stainless steel
  • Water Resistance: 50 m
  • Dial / Strap: Blue; black alligator-print calfskin
  • Swiss List Price: CHF 3,800
View at Vulcain

Cricket Tradition

Tradition would be my first stop for the more nostalgic Cricket look. The curved dial, full numerals, and prominent alarm scale make the mechanism feel integral to the design.

I would choose the eggshell 36mm on brown calfskin. The warm dial and strap suit the character of the watch, and the smaller diameter is appealing for a dressier role. At 12.8mm thick, though, it is not an ultra-thin watch. Its listed 52-hour reserve is for timekeeping; the approximately 20-second alarm duration is a separate specification.

Vulcain Cricket Tradition Eggshell 36mm 100169A76.BAN308 — Eggshell; brown alligator-print calfskin
  • Reference: 100169A76.BAN308
  • Movement: V10 H0 hand-wound alarm; 52 hours
  • Case: 36 mm; 12.8 mm thick
  • Water Resistance: 50 m
  • Dial / Strap: Eggshell; brown alligator-print calfskin
  • Swiss List Price: CHF 3,800
View at Vulcain

Cricket Classique

Classique gives the Cricket a bolder dial. I would explore it if the alarm appealed but the softer colors of Tradition did not. Both 36mm and 39mm configurations are listed.

My representative choice is the black, white, and blue 39mm model. I prefer its stronger contrast for a more casual look. The larger size costs more than the 36mm selections above; it does not bring a different reserve or turn the V10 into an automatic. I would compare the two sizes before choosing by photographs alone.

Vulcain Cricket Classique Black & White/Blue 39mm 100168B07.BAN249 — Black with white/blue printing; black alligator-print calfskin
  • Reference: 100168B07.BAN249
  • Movement: V10 H0 hand-wound alarm; 52 hours
  • Case: 39 mm; 12.8 mm thick
  • Water Resistance: 50 m
  • Dial / Strap: Black with white/blue printing; black alligator-print calfskin
  • Swiss List Price: CHF 4,400
View at Vulcain

Cricket Titane

Titane is the specialized choice: a titanium case, textured grey dial, exhibition back, and the V14 Titanium Cricket movement. Vulcain lists an edition of 100 pieces.

I like the grey dial and blue hands on black calfskin, but this would be a deliberate enthusiast purchase. At CHF 6,200, the material and movement treatment need to matter to me; the listed 52-hour reserve is no longer than the less expensive V10 models. I would also confirm the case diameter directly before ordering, because the current official specification block gives conflicting figures.

Vulcain Cricket Titane 142268G13.BAN249 — Textured grey; black alligator-print calfskin
  • Reference: 142268G13.BAN249
  • Movement: V14 mechanical alarm; 52 hours
  • Case: Titanium; 12.9 mm thick
  • Edition: 100 pieces; sapphire exhibition caseback
  • Water Resistance: 50 m
  • Dial / Strap: Textured grey; black alligator-print calfskin
  • Swiss List Price: CHF 6,200
View at Vulcain

Nautical Heritage: The Alarm Watch With The Biggest Personality

Nautical Heritage combines the Cricket alarm with a dial full of decompression markings. It is the most distinctive watch here to my eye, but also the one I would be least inclined to buy without trying on.

My pick is the black dial with beige accents, sapphire crystal, steel triple caseback, and black rubber strap. That exact combination matters: Vulcain also offers plexiglass and display-back options at different prices. The triple caseback forms the acoustic chamber, and its 17.35mm thickness makes this a substantial watch despite the 42mm diameter.

Vulcain Nautical Heritage Black Beige Patina 100252SB07.BAR101 — Black with beige accents; integrated black rubber
  • Reference: 100252SB07.BAR101
  • Movement: V10 hand-wound alarm; 52 hours
  • Case: 42 mm; 17.35 mm thick with triple caseback
  • Crystal / Caseback: Sapphire; steel triple caseback
  • Water Resistance: 300 m
  • Dial / Strap: Black with beige accents; integrated black rubber
  • Swiss List Price: CHF 4,500
View at Vulcain

I would choose it for the unusual mechanism and historical design. The 300m rating does not make its old-style decompression display a substitute for current dive planning and equipment. For ordinary everyday use, the simpler Skindiver below would be my easier recommendation.

Skindiver: My Practical Starting Point

The three branches are Nautique, GMT, and Chronograph. They share a family resemblance, but the movements, bezels, and dimensions differ. I would decide which function I actually wanted before choosing the dial color.

Skindiver Nautique

The Nautique is my choice for a simple, compact sports watch. The current selection includes several dial colors, a meteorite execution, and bronze and gold-colored versions.

I would start with the blue steel watch on the beads-of-rice bracelet. Its 38mm diameter, no-date dial, unidirectional ceramic timing bezel, and 200m rating make a straightforward combination. The blue dial and warm-colored lume give it the vintage character I would be buying it for.

Vulcain Skindiver Nautique Blue 660170A37.BHM287 — Blue with khaki lume; beads-of-rice steel bracelet
  • Reference: 660170A37.BHM287
  • Movement: ETA 2824 automatic; 38 hours
  • Case: 38 mm; 12.2 mm thick
  • Water Resistance: 200 m
  • Dial / Strap: Blue with khaki lume; beads-of-rice steel bracelet
  • Swiss List Price: CHF 1,650
View at Vulcain

The ETA 2824’s listed 38-hour reserve is the compromise I would keep in mind if I rotated watches. I would also compare the bracelet with the cheaper Tropic rubber configuration; the prices and reference suffixes differ. If vintage divers are the attraction, my DOXA guide offers another set of designs to compare.

Skindiver Nautique GMT

The GMT adds a date and second-time-zone hand while staying close to the three-hand watch’s dimensions. It is the branch I would investigate for tracking home time or colleagues in another time zone.

My pick is the black dial with white lume on the beads-of-rice bracelet. I like its straightforward contrast and restrained color scheme. The Soprod C125 offers 42 hours of reserve, while the ceramic bezel rotates in both directions.

Vulcain Skindiver GMT Black / White Lume 680174B07.BHM287 — Black with white lume; beads-of-rice steel bracelet
  • Reference: 680174B07.BHM287
  • Movement: Soprod C125 automatic GMT; 42 hours
  • Case: 38.3 mm; 12.2 mm thick
  • Water Resistance: 200 m
  • Dial / Strap: Black with white lume; beads-of-rice steel bracelet
  • Swiss List Price: CHF 2,030
View at Vulcain

Vulcain’s setting instructions show an independently adjustable GMT hand. This is the arrangement commonly called a caller GMT, rather than a watch with an independently jumping local-hour hand. I would factor that into how I planned to use it. Its 24-hour bezel also serves a different purpose from the Nautique’s elapsed-time bezel.

Skindiver Chronograph: The Watch I Reviewed

The Skindiver Chronograph is the sportiest chronograph choice in the range. Its automatic movement, external ceramic bezel, and 200m rating distinguish it from the dressier hand-wound chronographs below.

The black watch on the steel bracelet is the exact reference in my dedicated review. I like how the silver counters and orange accents give the dial energy without needing a very large case. At 39.7mm wide and 13mm thick, it is still a watch I would assess by its full proportions, not diameter alone.

Vulcain Skindiver Chronograph Black 590176A07.BHM286 — Black with silver counters; stainless steel bracelet
  • Reference: 590176A07.BHM286
  • Movement: C088 (ETA 7753 base) automatic chronograph; 42 hours
  • Case: 39.7 mm; 13 mm thick
  • Water Resistance: 200 m
  • Dial / Strap: Black with silver counters; stainless steel bracelet
  • Swiss List Price: CHF 2,760
Read My Skindiver Chronograph Review View at Vulcain

My full Skindiver Chronograph Black review goes into the dial, fit, movement, and bracelet. The card here uses the current CHF price for 590176A07.BHM286. The collection’s cheaper beads-of-rice and rubber configurations are different references. Its bidirectional bezel also differs from the three-hand Nautique’s unidirectional dive bezel.

Grand Prix: The Quieter, More Affordable Vulcain

Grand Prix is where I would look for a simple automatic with a dressier appearance. There are two distinct displays to consider: central seconds and Small Second. Neither has the Cricket alarm.

Grand Prix With Central Seconds

My pick is the champagne dial on brown calfskin. I like the combination of long markers, a domed dial, and warm color. It is the least expensive watch selected here, and it makes sense to me as an alternative to another dark-dial sports watch.

Vulcain Grand Prix Champagne 670171A70.BAN229 — Champagne; brown alligator-print calfskin
  • Reference: 670171A70.BAN229
  • Movement: Landeron L24 automatic; 40 hours
  • Case: 39 mm; 12.7 mm thick
  • Water Resistance: 50 m
  • Dial / Strap: Champagne; brown alligator-print calfskin
  • Swiss List Price: CHF 1,190
View at Vulcain

The 39mm case gives the design room to breathe, although 12.7mm thickness is substantial for a simple dress watch. I would check cuff clearance and profile rather than infer thinness from the clean dial. Its Landeron L24 automatic movement has a listed 40-hour reserve.

Grand Prix Small Second

I would choose the green Small Second on black calfskin if I wanted a little more going on. The seconds display at six and Arabic numerals give it a different character from the simpler central-seconds design.

Vulcain Grand Prix Small Second Green 690175A90.BAN249 — Green; black alligator-print calfskin
  • Reference: 690175A90.BAN249
  • Movement: L24-6 automatic; 40 hours
  • Case: 39 mm; 12.7 mm thick
  • Water Resistance: 50 m
  • Dial / Strap: Green; black alligator-print calfskin
  • Swiss List Price: CHF 1,290
View at Vulcain

The listed case dimensions and 40-hour reserve match the central-seconds Grand Prix, so I would choose between them mainly by the dial. The green model shown is the regular listing, separate from the sold-out limited-edition version also visible in the collection. Blue and purple offer other directions if green is not the right fit.

Monopusher Heritage: A Chronograph I Would Choose For The Ritual

Monopusher Heritage uses one button at two o’clock for the chronograph’s start, stop, and reset sequence. The manually wound Sellita movement makes this a more involved daily companion than the automatic Skindiver Chronograph.

My pick is the Panda dial on brown calfskin. The dark counters against the pale dial and the single pusher give it an attractive, slightly unusual balance. I would choose it because I enjoyed those details and the winding routine.

Vulcain Monopusher Heritage Panda 650167A58.BAN229 — White with black counters; brown alligator-print calfskin
  • Reference: 650167A58.BAN229
  • Movement: Sellita SW510 M MP b hand-wound chronograph; 58 hours
  • Case: 38.9 mm; 13 mm thick
  • Water Resistance: 50 m
  • Dial / Strap: White with black counters; brown alligator-print calfskin
  • Swiss List Price: CHF 2,770
View at Vulcain

Its listed 58-hour reserve is useful, but I would not assume it shares the Chrono 70’s 63-hour specification just because both use SW510-family movements. The 50m rating and leather strap also point to a different role from the sportier Skindiver.

Chrono 70’s: Worth Knowing, With An Availability Catch

The Chrono 70’s collection is still part of Vulcain’s current menu, but all five listed dial versions and their variants were sold out on October 15, 2026. I am keeping it here for completeness, with a reference card rather than an immediate buying recommendation.

The black 38mm model is the one I would keep an eye on. I like the cleaner dial and conventional two-pusher layout. Its hand-wound movement, 12.4mm thickness, and 63-hour reserve distinguish it from both the Monopusher and Skindiver Chronograph.

Vulcain Chronograph 70’s Black 640109B00.BAN249 — Black; black alligator-print calfskin
  • Reference: 640109B00.BAN249
  • Movement: Sellita SW510 M BH b hand-wound chronograph; 63 hours
  • Case: 38 mm; 12.4 mm thick
  • Water Resistance: 50 m
  • Dial / Strap: Black; black alligator-print calfskin
  • Listed Price: CHF 2,500
  • Availability: Sold out at the October 15, 2026 check
View Sold-Out Model at Vulcain

I would check the brand or an authorized retailer for availability without assuming that a restock is scheduled. The CHF 2,500 shown is the official listed price, not a confirmed offer from a seller with stock.

A Brief Note On The Table Clock

Vulcain also lists a Table Clock. It belongs in a complete picture of the brand’s current menu, although it is a desk accessory rather than another wristwatch collection. The watch recommendations above cover all of the menu’s wristwatch branches.

Quality And Ownership: What I Would Check

The movement should match the reason for buying. I would look at Cricket for the manufacture alarm, Skindiver GMT for a second time zone, and Grand Prix for a straightforward automatic. None of those choices requires claiming that every Vulcain movement is made in-house. The different reserves also matter in daily use: 38 hours in the featured Nautique is a different proposition from 63 in the Chrono 70’s.

Caseback, crystal, and strap choices need attention. The Nautical’s display-back and triple-caseback versions are not identical configurations. On several dressier models, the straps are alligator-pattern calfskin, not alligator leather. I would make sure the reference in the order matched the watch pictured and priced.

Vulcain states a two-year international warranty covering manufacturing defects under its terms. It excludes items such as the glass and normal leather-strap wear, and requires authorized repair work. I would establish the service route with the seller before buying, particularly for an alarm watch.

The brand also recommends annual water-resistance checks and a mechanical-movement check every two to three years. I would treat that as its inspection guidance, rather than assume every check necessarily means a full service. For water use, I would follow the instructions for the exact watch and avoid treating a depth rating as permission to operate chronograph pushers underwater.

Which Vulcain Would I Choose?

If I Wanted…I Would Start With…
The most characteristic Vulcain experienceCricket Tradition Eggshell — The alarm and nostalgic dial make the appeal clear.
A dressier alarm watchCricket President — A more restrained dial, with 36mm and 39mm choices.
A practical sports watchSkindiver Nautique — Compact dimensions and a simple timing bezel.
A second time zoneSkindiver GMT — A caller GMT in a compact case.
An automatic chronographSkindiver Chronograph Black — The exact bracelet model covered in my review.
A quieter, less expensive everyday watchGrand Prix Champagne — A clean dial and straightforward automatic movement.
A hand-wound chronographMonopusher Heritage Panda — An interesting single-button layout.
Something especially unusualNautical Heritage — Provided its substantial thickness suited my wrist.

My own shortlist would begin with Cricket Tradition, Skindiver Nautique, and Grand Prix Champagne. They give me three distinct reasons to choose Vulcain: the alarm, a compact vintage-style diver, or a simple dressier watch. I would let fit and the pleasure of the design decide from there.

For another perspective on vintage-inspired Swiss watches, my Longines brand review is a useful next read, especially its Legend Diver and Heritage sections.

Vulcain Watches FAQ

Is Vulcain a Swiss watch brand?

Yes. Vulcain was founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1858 and describes its current manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland. The Cricket alarm, introduced in 1947, is central to its identity.

Are all Vulcain watches automatic?

No. The featured Skindiver models and Grand Prix watches are automatic, while the V10 Cricket, Monopusher Heritage, and Chrono 70’s selections are manually wound. I would check the exact model rather than assume one movement type across the brand.

Do all Vulcain watches have an alarm?

No. The Cricket and Nautical Cricket families have mechanical alarms. The Skindiver, Grand Prix, Monopusher, and Chrono 70’s watches featured here do not.

Which Vulcain would I recommend as a first purchase?

I would start with the Skindiver Nautique for a sports watch, Grand Prix for a dressier automatic, or Cricket Tradition if the mechanical alarm were the reason for choosing Vulcain.

Is the Chrono 70’s currently available?

It remains in the official collection menu, but all listed variants were sold out at the October 15, 2026 check. Its card is included for reference, and I would confirm availability directly rather than assume a restock.

How long is the Vulcain warranty?

Vulcain states a two-year international warranty for manufacturing defects under its terms. Exclusions include glass and normal leather-strap wear, and repairs must be carried out through authorized channels.

Written by

Maté D.
Maté D.

Maté is the founder and editor of The Watch Resource. With a background in marketing and analytics and a decade-long passion for horology, he combines a collector's perspective with a reader-first approach to watch content — covering brands, movements, and timepieces with the depth he wished he'd found when he started. Since 2021, he's been building TWR into a trusted reference for watch enthusiasts at every level.