We’re all familiar with Seiko and their watches, as it is undoubtedly one of the most commonly recommended brands in the world of watches. They are well known for providing reliable, high quality watches at affordable price points.
Seiko has timepieces that are intriguing for both beginner watch enthusiasts and seasoned veterans, and for that reason, the brand successfully created a passionate follower base —rightly so.
Based on my own experience trying to navigate the endless options Seiko has to offer, it can feel a little daunting. The feeling of overwhelm and confusion definitely sets in quickly while trying to compare and contrast the watches in order to pick a winner.
With the struggle still fresh in my mind, I wanted to create this organized guide to help decide what timepieces are worth adding to the collection, for both myself and my fellow watch lovers.
The watches are organized into easy-to-understand categories, and to finish it off, I picked the best (in my humble opinion, after careful consideration) watch in each category. It was imperative for me to pick a winner that has something unique, a standout not picked by all the generic publishers.
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Entry-Level Tier:
The average cost of Seiko watches in this category is between $200 and $500. The main collections are Seiko 5 Sports, and Coutura. Personally, I’m not the biggest fan of the Coutura lineup, so I wanted to focus on the Seiko 5 Sports collection, a lineup that has been very popular since the 1960s.
SRPE61 - Best for Beginners / Best 1st Automatic Watch
Specs:
- Ref #: SRPE61
- Movement: Automatic
- Caliber: 4R36
- Power Reserve: 41 hours
- Case Width: 40 mm
- Lug-to-Lug Distance: 44.6 mm
- Price: Under $300
I’ve picked the SRPE61, as I think it is a great pick if you’re just getting started with watches: It’s understated yet sporty, a perfect pick for an everyday watch. The case diameter is 40 mm, therefore it’s great for smaller wrists as well.
This watch has an automatic movement, the 4R36 caliber that provides 41 hours of power reserve. The best part? The price is very affordable at $295, so you can’t really beat this. The only downside is that you can’t really dress this watch up, meaning this wouldn’t be the best option for a bit more elegant setting, or even business casual.
SRPK91 - Best Everyday Carry: Most Versatile Design
Specs:
- Ref #: SRPK91
- Movement: Automatic
- Caliber: 4R36
- Power Reserve: 41 hours
- Case Width: 37.4 mm
- Lug-to-Lug Distance: 44.7 mm
- Price: Under $400
The SRPK91, SRPK89, or SRPK87 are from Seiko’s new collection, the SNXS series. The new series was developed with the concept of EDC (Everyday Carry), and these are great options if you’re looking for something that you can dress up or down. I think these watches are the best watches from Seiko as everyday-carry timepieces.
The watch comes with Seiko’s own automatic movement, the 4R36 caliber, providing 41 hours of power reserve. My personal favorite is the SRPK91 (the champagne dial), but I’ll include the link to the blue (SRPK87) and the black (SRPK89) dial as well. I do want to call out the fact that the case diameter is at 37.4 mm. This works great for smaller and average size wrists, but if you have a bigger wrist, try it on first to make sure you like the way it looks on you.
SRPG35 - Best Seiko Field Watch
Specs:
- Ref #: SRPG35
- Movement: Automatic
- Caliber: 4R36
- Power Reserve: 41 hours
- Case Width: 39.4 mm
- Lug-to-Lug Distance: 48.1 mm
- Price: Under $300
This one is for the field watch fans. The SRPG35 is a classic vintage-inspired field watch at an unbeatable price: $295. A perfect choice for an active lifestyle with an additional touch of retro. Staying true to classic field watches, the case diameter is on the smaller side at 39.4 mm.
Similarly to the previous models mentioned above, the automatic movement is the 4R36 caliber providing 41 hours of power reserve. The black dial is paired with beige as a secondary color for the Arabic numerals and hour and minute hands. This creates a stylishly retro look.
Mid-Range Tier:
Seiko watches in this second category are equipped with better quality materials, and their cost is closer to $1,000. Here, we’ll find the Prospex collection with great dive watches and chronographs – such as the new variations of the historical Speedtimer.
Additionally, I included the Presage collection here, a more elegant lineup for the special occasions.
SPB143: Best Seiko Dive Watch
Specs:
- Ref #: SPB143
- Movement: Automatic
- Caliber: 6R35
- Power Reserve: 70 hours
- Case Width: 40.5 mm
- Lug-to-Lug Distance: 47.6 mm
- Price: Around $1,000
I think a dive watch is a must-have for everyone, as a matter of fact, I’d say a dive watch is a perfect first watch for anyone. You can dress it up or down very easily, it’s classic, it’s durable, goes with anything, and a great addition to any outfit.
The case diameter is 40.5 mm, a perfectly comfortable size for all wrists. The water resistance is 200 meters, so feel free to take this with you on your vacations.
The SPB143 comes with the 6R35 caliber. This automatic movement is part of what Seiko refers to as the high performance 6R series caliber, and provides an impressive 70 hours of power reserve.
SPB167 - Best Seiko Formal Watch
Specs:
- Ref #: SPB167
- Movement: Automatic
- Caliber: 6R35
- Power Reserve: 70 hours
- Case Width: 39.3 mm
- Lug-to-Lug Distance: 47.2 mm
- Price: Around $1,000
The Presage collection combines a Japanese aesthetic sense with traditional craftsmanship and Seiko’s mechanical watchmaking skills. Presage watches are usually understated and elegant – I call them formal watches. They are more on the elegant side, but they’re not dress watches, they to me seem more universal.
I’ve picked the SPB167, because I really like how the different design elements are counter-balancing each other. The roundness of the case and bezel is emphasized due to the polished finish, while the narrow and sharp obelisque hour and minute hands bring a bit of an edge to the overall look. The guilloché-pattern dial is just an absolutely beautiful element.
SPB411J1 - Best Seiko GMT Watch
Specs:
- Ref #: SPB411J1
- Movement: Automatic
- Caliber: 6R54
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Case Width: 38.5 mm
- Lug-to-Lug Distance: 45.2 mm
- Price: Around $1,500
Seiko has reimagined its iconic 1968 model, the brand’s first GMT watch with a rotating bezel, in its latest release within the Prospex collection. This limited-edition timepiece stays true to the timeless sports design and compact proportions of the late-‘60s Navigator Timer. A striking five-row bracelet adds a touch of brilliance, enhancing its classic and luxurious appeal.
The SPB411J1 is a very muscular watch with straight lines, the baton-style hour and minute hands, and the dynamic red color for the GMT hand. What I really like about this watch is that Seiko was able to create a robust design with dimensions that are perfect for everyday wear and for smaller wrists as well: the case diameter is 38.5 mm, and the lug-to-lug distance is 45.2 mm.
SSC813 Speedtimer - Best Seiko Chronograph
Specs:
- Ref #: SSC813
- Movement: Solar
- Caliber: V192
- Case Width: 39 mm
- Lug-to-Lug Distance: 45.5 mm
- Price: Around $500
Drawing inspiration from Seiko’s first precision chronographs, developed for the 1964 international sporting competitions, the Speedtimer is back. This solar-powered watch combines precision and practicality. Powered by any light source, the solar cell eliminates the need for battery changes, delivering a 6-month power reserve when fully charged. The black tachymeter bezel frames a white sand-textured dial with three black subdials.
As with most of their watches, Seiko managed to create a sporty design with smaller than usual proportions: the case diameter is 39 mm, and the lug-to-lug distance is 45.5 mm – great fit for most wrist sizes.
SPB155 Baby Alpinist - Best Go Anywhere Do Anything (GADA) Watch
Specs:
- Ref #: SPB155
- Movement: Automatic
- Caliber: 6R35
- Power Reserve: 70 hours
- Case Width: 38 mm
- Lug-to-Lug Distance: 46 mm
- Price: Around $700
Usually the Seiko Prospex Alpinist SPB121J1 receives the spotlight, as that model is the “official” modern re-imagining of Seiko’s first sport watch introduced in 1959.
And while it is a very popular watch, I was always back and forth regarding how I feel about it. It is hard to categorize its appearance, so I’ll call it smart casual, as this Seiko is somewhere in between a dress watch and a field watch, which was the original intention of the design by Seiko.
But there’s another reinterpretation of the 1959 model: the SPB155, often referred to as the “Baby Alpinist”. The grainy green dial brings a touch of vintage feel that is paired with gold-tone hour indices and cathedral hands. Its case width at 38 mm, and 46 mm lug-to-lug distance makes the Seiko “Baby Alpinist” a comfortable wear.
To me, the overall design and look works better with the smaller case size and more simplified dial. I think the SPB155 Baby Alpinist’s identity is more crystalized, and more importantly: it’s the unexpected pick.
SRPL07 - Best Vintage Inspired Seiko
Specs:
- Ref #: SRPL07
- Movement: Automatic
- Caliber: 4R35
- Power Reserve: 41 hours
- Case Width: 39.5 mm
- Lug-to-Lug Distance: 46.2 mm
- Price: Around $500
The SRPL07’s design was inspired by Seiko’s 1964 “Crown Chronograph” watch, and the end result is a beautiful combination of modern ruggedness and refined vintage elegance. The brushed stainless steel bracelet and bezel provides the tough look. The dial is about style: the faceted indices are polished for an elegant shine. And the hour and minute hands? While Seiko generally refers to this style as razor hands, the more common name of this style is the Dauphine hands. Dauphine hands generally indicate a luxurious style of watch rather than a sporty style.
Fun fact: Grand Seiko has become an acknowledged master of Dauphine hands.
High-End Tier
This is the tier with the two most expensive collections under the Seiko umbrella (Grand Seiko is not included): Astron, and King Seiko. The average price is between $2,000 and $3,500.
The Astron lineup has the world’s first GPS solar watches. Seiko Astron connects to the GPS network to automatically adjust to your time zone at the touch of a button. Powered entirely by light, it eliminates the need for battery changes.
King Seiko was a collection initially designed in 1961, and after production stopped, the lineup was restarted in 2022. Its position is somewhere between Seiko Presage watches and Grand Seiko.
In my honest opinion, I don’t see a clear identity with these two collections. Given the average price tag ($2k – $3.5k) of the watches from these two collections, I would recommend watches with more character.
BONUS: Personal Favorite
Seiko 5 Sports Heritage Design Recreation Limited Edition
This limited edition watch brings some ‘70s nostalgia alive with the bracelet design and its turtle case. It’s available in two dial colors: black and silver. Both of these feature a lollipop second hand that feels refreshingly oldschool. The modern bezel on the classic ‘70s turtle case plays really well together. A unique, limited edition gem with the trusted 4R36 automatic caliber at $450? Yes please.
Specs:
- Ref #: SRPL05
- Movement: Automatic
- Caliber: 4R36
- Power Reserve: 41 hours
- Case Width: 38.5 mm
- Lug-to-Lug Distance: 44.8 mm
- Price: $450
WRITTEN BY
Maté D
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