I love reviewing watches with unique designs, and that is why our next stop is the Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT White. The reason I picked this watch today is that GMT functions are exciting features for watches, however, it poses a few challenges from a design perspective, as the additional complication can make the dial very busy. Because of this, most GMT watches look very sporty. Well, that’s not the case with the Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT White (BR05G-SI-ST/SST). It’s a very elegant watch, with perfect dimensions.
Bell & Ross: The Brand
Bell & Ross was established in 1992 by Bruno Belamich (Bell) and Carlos A. Rosillo (Ross). In the beginning, the watches were produced by Sinn, the German company. However, when Chanel acquired a minority stake in the company, the partnership with Sinn came to an end in 2002. Subsequently, Bell & Ross relocated its production to Switzerland. In 2005, the brand introduced square-shaped watches inspired by cockpit instruments, starting with the iconic BR 01 model. Since then, the brand has experienced a consistent rise in popularity, attributed to its utilization of high-quality materials, dependable movements (primarily modified Sellita Swiss automatic movements), and a meticulous design approach where every detail contributes to the final aesthetic.
Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT: Overview
The Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT White (BR05G-SI-ST/SST) is an immediate standout, as the overall look of the timepiece is something I could describe as “vibrant elegance”. A composed look, where everything has its place and function.
The Bell & Ross BR 05 is a watch that can be recognized from a distance due to the stark white dial and eye-catching satin stainless steel, yet remains refined and elegant. While Integrated stainless steel bracelets are usually not too popular, here, it actually contributes to the overall look and feel of the watch, as its design perfectly complements the case, tastefully combining brushed and satin stainless steel finishes.
The BR 05 GMT is a very masculine watch: angular design and perfectly flat surfaces. The case width is 41 mm, which doesn’t count as a larger size, but since it’s a rectangular case, it does feel massive in the best way possible, as it can rest on your wrist very naturally.
Specs:
- Ref # BR05G-BL-ST/SST (black)
- Ref # BR05G-SI-ST/SST (white)
- Movement: Automatic
- Caliber: BR-CAL.325
- Power Reserve: 42 hours
- Case Width: 41 mm
- Water Resistance: 100 meters
- Price: Under $4,000
Dial
The dial of the BR 05 GMT is simple, yet not underwhelming. The white dial combined with the satin-polished stainless steel case creates a vibrant and elegant look.
We have curved Arabic numerals for the 6, 9, and 12 o’clock positions to neutralize the watch’s overall angular look, and to emphasize rounded shapes. Numerals and indices coated in Super-LumiNova®, and the date window is at the 3 o’clock position – a classic placement.
The Baton hands are a great pick for this watch, as the long straight lines are needed for the overall design, however, the slightly rounded ends of the minute and hour hands represent the balance between angles and curves that is needed for design stability.
The GMT’s arrow hand is an exciting pop of color: the end has bright red outlines, and the same color is used on the dial’s GMT mark to make the dial more dynamic.
The internal 24 hour scale along the edge of the dial has a subtle look: instead of a dramatic contrast to distinguish day and night time, the day time hours have the same white color as the dial, while the night time hours have silver-tone color, playing harmoniously with the stainless steel case.
Case
The watch case is made of satin-finished stainless steel, with perfectly flat surfaces. It has a width of 41 mm, making it comfortable for most wrist sizes. A subtle and elegant design solution that I absolutely love is the sloping surfaces at the edge of the case (the bevels) are polished.
As a result, these areas appear brighter and glossier, lending the timepiece a more elegant look and feel.
This polish contrasts with the overall sporty design, creating a balance, but more importantly that elegant look for a GMT that I think we don’t see too often.
The sapphire crystal offers good scratch resistance, and the screw-down crown enhances the watch’s water resistance up to 100 meters.
At all four corners of the watch there are decorative flat head screws with their slotted drive symmetrically focusing towards the middle of the dial. This design element is used by many luxury sports watches, but I think Bell & Ross found a unique and natural way to not just incorporate this to their design but to make it their own. Remember, Bell & Ross introduced square-shaped watches inspired by cockpit instruments.
The screw-down crown proudly displays the Bell & Ross brand’s “&” symbol, and the crown guards also incorporate similar screws. However, these screws are intentionally not aligned symmetrically, creating a more organic and natural appearance, especially in the areas we frequently use and interact with.
Furthermore, the sapphire case-back, adorned with a 360° oscillating weight, offers a splendid view of the movement inside. In this case, the four screws in the corners are perfectly aligned, prioritizing functionality over aesthetics.
Movement
The Bell & Ross BR05 GMT has an automatic Swiss movement, the BR-CAL.325. This 25-jewel movement is based on the Sellita SW330-1 movement, which was introduced in 2015 and is considered as a competitor of the ETA 2893-2. It provides 42 hours of power reserve.
Stainless Steel Bracelet
The BR 05 GMT features an integrated bracelet, which may not be the most commonly preferred choice due to its limited compatibility with different straps. However, we acknowledge and value the artistic vision behind this design decision. The integrated bracelet is not merely attached to the case; it is an integral part of it. This subtle integration signifies that the watch’s significance extends beyond its case and internal components, emphasizing the importance of how it wears and feels on the wrist.
Additionally, the bracelet is crafted from flexible steel and showcases alternating brushed and polished surfaces. This seamless integration ensures that the bracelet complements the overall aesthetic of the watch, providing a harmonious blend of style and flexibility.
Pros and Cons
Let’s take a look at the summary of pros and cons in my humble opinion:
PROS
- The 41 mm case width is perfect for all wrist sizes.
- Unmistakable look, a truly unique design.
- Elegant – this watch is an appropriate wear for almost all occasions.
- Simple dial, yet not underwhelming.
- GMT functionality doesn’t overcrowd the dial.
CONS
- Integrated bracelet limits strap and bracelet options
- 100 meters water resistance – sufficient, but not overly impressive.
Summary: Takeaway and Final Thoughts About Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT
Bell & Ross as a brand is relatively new, and compared to some other brands with similar price points, some might say Bell & Ross doesn’t yet have the brand heritage.
I’ll be honest: I love and appreciate history and heritage. I also love to support brands that prove themselves worthy (for over three decades), not to mention that without support, none of the legacy brands would have reached “heritage brand” status.
I see mixed opinions when it comes to Bell & Ross, but the negative ones are not from owners of a Bell & Ross watch. They produce truly unique designs that I personally love.
The Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT possesses its own distinct character, offering a modern and unparalleled design that transcends time. With its 41 mm case width, and the skillful integration of brushed and polished stainless steel, this watch became one of my favorite companions for everyday wear. It’s a perfect choice as it can effortlessly transition into more formal settings. Equipped with an automatic movement (BR.CAL.325 caliber), you’ll have a power reserve of 42 hours.
Undoubtedly, this watch makes a bold statement and, in my perspective, stands out as a remarkable timepiece.
Specs:
- Ref # BR05G-BL-ST/SST (black)
- Ref # BR05G-SI-ST/SST (white)
- Movement: Automatic
- Caliber: BR-CAL.325
- Power Reserve: 42 hours
- Case Width: 41 mm
- Water Resistance: 100 meters
- Price: Under $4,000
WRITTEN BY
Maté D
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