When the majority of people envision a dive watch, the initial association is often the visually strong serrated bezel. However, there emerged another style of diver during the early days of recreational diving that gained significant popularity – the Super Compressor. It’s important to clarify that the Super Compressor was not a watch itself but rather a patented watch case design utilized by numerous watch companies.
The defining visual feature of these watches is an inner rotating bezel and a double-crown system. One crown would control the inner bezel, while the other was responsible for adjusting and winding the movement.
While this style continues to be highly sought after, advancements in materials and case construction have rendered the original architecture developed by EPSA unnecessary. Nowadays, we mostly encounter Compressor-style watches that embrace the spirit of the early Compressor divers rather than replicating their construction method.
The wide range of Super Compressor watches available means that those seeking a remarkable vintage dive watch have numerous choices, some of which are remarkably affordable.
The Origins of the Compressor Dive Watch
In the late 1950s, Ervin Piquerez SA (EPSA) introduced the (Super)compressor dive watch, which featured a patented spring mechanism positioned between the case and the caseback. This innovative system allowed the watch to become increasingly water-resistant as it descended to greater depths, as the mounting pressure progressively sealed the case more tightly. Timepieces utilizing this construction method often boasted water-resistance ratings of 200 meters or higher.
Why Do Super Compressor Watches Have Two Crowns?
Super Compressor dive watches have two crowns because of the internal rotating bezel. To turn the inner bezel, you’ll have to use the crown at 2 o’clock position. The crown at the 4 o’clock position (sometimes at the 3 o’clock position) is used to adjust time.
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CiRCULA SuperSport Petrol
Specs:
- Movement: Automatic
- Caliber: Sellita SW200-1
- Power Reserve: 41 hours
- Case Width: 40 mm
- Lug-to-lug: 46.5 mm
- Water Resistance: 300 m
- Price: Around $1,300
The SuperSport Petrol from CiRCULA is a compelling take on the modern diver’s watch with vintage cues and functional design. At 40 mm in diameter, 12 mm in height and with a lug-to-lug length of 46.5 mm, it strikes a reasonably balanced size for many wrists. The case uses 316L stainless steel with a hand-brushed finish and polished bevels — giving it both robustness and a hint of refinement. The domed, double-AR-coated sapphire crystal offers clarity and scratch resistance.
Functionally, the SuperSport Petrol punches above its price class. Its Sellita SW200-1 Elaboré movement (Swiss automatic) brings reliable mechanics, while the internal unidirectional 120-click diving bezel (with Super-LumiNova C3 X1 indices) and 30 ATM water resistance underline its serious diver credentials. It also features a screw-down crown at 4h alongside a pure rotating crown at 2h (super-compressor case design), which is a nice nod to classic compressor divers. The dial is sandwich-construction with submerged indices and BGW9 lume, giving good legibility both day and night.
On the “cons” side, while the size is good for many, those with smaller wrists might find the lug-to-lug a bit long. The height (12–13.3 mm with crystal) means it won’t be ultra slim under cuffs. Also, while the in-house finishing is solid for the price point, it won’t match the ultra-high end micromechanical finishing of much more expensive luxury brands. But in relation to cost (list price ~$1,300) it delivers strong value, combining Swiss movement, solid build, and thoughtful design. In short: if you’re seeking a stylish, capable diver with vintage character but modern construction, the SuperSport Petrol is a worthy contender.
BALL Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer
Specs:
- Movement: Automatic
- Caliber: BALL RR1101-C
- Power Reserve: 41 hours
- Case Width: 42 mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 50 mm
- Water Resistance: 300 m
- Price: Around $2,700
At its core, the watch is powered by the chronometer-certified (COSC) automatic calibre BALL RR1101-C, ensuring excellent accuracy. It also boasts advanced anti-magnetism up to 1,000 gauss and shock resistance of nearly 5,000 Gs, thanks to Ball’s Amortiser® shock-absorption system. A visually striking element is the use of 36 micro gas tubes for illumination on the hands, dial markers, and inner bezel, providing exceptional legibility in low light or underwater. The “BRR” reference features a brown-gradient dial, adding a touch of dressy, vintage charm to its tool watch character.
However, there are a few considerations. While the internal bezel is elegant, its bi-directional movement might be less ideal for professional dive timing compared to a unidirectional external bezel, which offers a fail-safe mechanism. Additionally, its thickness and a lug-to-lug distance of approximately 50mm may give it more of a “tool-watch” feel on the wrist, potentially making it less discreet under a cuff. The power reserve of around 42 hours, though acceptable, is not exceptional by modern standards. Nevertheless, the movement’s chronometer certification and rugged features often outweigh this limitation for many users.
In summary, the Ball Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer DM2280A-S3C-BRR is an appealing choice for those seeking a diver that blends serious technical capabilities (300m WR, anti-magnetism, shock resistance, COSC movement) with a distinctive, somewhat vintage aesthetic (case size, gradient dial, micro-gas-tube luminescence) and limited-edition appeal. It is a highly recommendable piece for anyone looking for a unique watch that transitions seamlessly from serious underwater use to everyday wear.
Longines Legend Diver
Specs:
- Movement: Automatic
- Caliber: L888
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Case Width: 42 mm
- Lug Distance: 22 mm
- Water Resistance: 300 m
- Price: Under $2,000
The Longines Legend Diver masterfully blends vintage allure with modern watchmaking prowess. Its 42mm stainless steel case, 12.7mm thick, commands a strong wrist presence while honoring its classic origins. A standout feature is the internal rotating bezel, controlled by the 2 o’clock crown, which offers diving functionality without the bulk of an external bezel. Further enhancing its practical capabilities are a screw-down caseback, 300m water resistance, and an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, all while preserving its vintage charm.
The Legend Diver excels in both aesthetics and mechanics. Its black lacquered dial provides a sharp backdrop for applied Arabic numerals and indexes, with polished hands and Super-LumiNova® ensuring excellent legibility. Powering this timepiece is the automatic Calibre L888, boasting a robust 72-hour power reserve and a beat rate of 25,200 vph—a contemporary movement housed within a heritage design. The option of a steel mesh bracelet contributes to its dress-dive aesthetic, making it a versatile choice for both daily wear and adventurous weekends.
This versatility is truly where the Legend Diver shines, gracefully balancing practical dive capabilities with a vintage-inspired dress watch appeal. Its classic twin-crown compressor layout evokes the spirit of 1960s divers, while modern materials and movement details bring it firmly into the present. It possesses enough presence to stand out whether paired with casual jeans or a blazer. While some purists might find the 42mm size large, it aligns well with modern wrist proportions, and the comfortable bracelet aids in its balanced feel. For those seeking a dive watch with a rich heritage, technical credibility, and everyday wearability, the Longines Legend Diver is an exceptional choice.
Spinnaker Bradner
Specs:
- Movement: Automatic
- Caliber: NH35
- Power Reserve: 41 hours
- Case Width: 42 mm
- Lug Distance: 20 mm
- Price: Under $400
The Spinnaker Bradner, part of the SP-5062 series, stands out as a timepiece that surpasses expectations for its price. Its 42mm stainless steel case and approximately 15mm thickness give it a substantial wrist presence while retaining a vintage diver aesthetic. The design clearly pays homage to mid-century compressor-style dive watches, featuring an internal rotating bezel controlled by a secondary crown and a robust case construction.
The watch’s quality is further elevated by its materials, including sapphire crystal, screw-down crowns, and a water resistance rating of 18 ATM / 180m. The “Pacific Blue” dial variant offers a modern, sporty look with deep blue tones and contrasting details, making it suitable for both casual and formal wear.
Powering the Bradner is the reliable Japanese Seiko NH35 automatic caliber, boasting 24 jewels and a 41-hour power reserve. This movement is known for its durability and ease of service, providing excellent daily performance without a premium cost. The three-dimensional internal bezel offers functional dive capabilities and a cool retro mechanical touch, while maintaining a cleaner exterior profile than external bezels. Applied indices, lume, and textured dial surfaces on many variants contribute to dial work that punches above its price class. The Bradner achieves a smart balance for those seeking a tool-watch aesthetic that isn’t overly sporty or bulky.
However, like any watch in this value segment, there are trade-offs. Its thickness (often cited at 14-15mm) means it sits fairly tall on the wrist, which might not appeal to those who prefer ultra-slim cases. While the 180m water resistance is solid for general use, it doesn’t reach the professional-dive levels of some luxury watches. Additionally, while the NH35 movement is dependable, it lacks the high-end refinements (such as higher power reserve, decoration, or proprietary manufacture calibers) found in more expensive pieces.
Despite these considerations, the Bradner offers strong value, combining vintage compressor design, an internal bezel, sapphire crystal, a reliable movement, and a quality finish. For anyone seeking a stylish dive-inspired watch that performs equally well under a shirt cuff or during rugged weekend activities, the Bradner is a compelling choice.
Alpina Seastrong Dive 300 Heritage
Specs:
- Movement: Automatic
- Caliber: AL-525
- Power Reserve: 38 hours
- Case Width: 42 mm
- Price: Around $1,500
The Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 Heritage is a modern dive watch with a clear vintage lineage. Its 42mm stainless steel case and 12.3mm thickness strike a balance between robustness and wearability. With a screw-down crown, solid caseback, and 300m water resistance, it boasts genuine dive credentials beyond mere aesthetics. The internal rotating 60-minute bezel (controlled by a crown) and the dial’s aesthetic clearly draw inspiration from the classic 1960s “super-compressor” divers once produced by the brand.
Powering the watch is the AL-525 automatic movement, a refined version of the Sellita SW200-1, featuring 26 jewels, a 28,800 vph frequency, and a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. The cream/vintage white dial variant offers a clean, distinctive look with applied markers and a refined finish. The contrast between the dial and the black (or dark) inner bezel ring enhances legibility and gives the timepiece a unique character. The arrow-tip minute hand, present in some references, further improves readability and contributes to the vintage styling.
While the Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 Heritage offers excellent value, certain trade-offs are worth noting. The 42mm size, though suitable for many, is larger than some classic divers and might feel substantial on smaller wrists. The 38-hour power reserve is acceptable but modest compared to competitors offering longer reserves, potentially requiring more frequent winding or wear. The internal bezel, while elegant, can be less intuitive to operate than external bezels, especially for those accustomed to more aggressive dive-tool functions. Nevertheless, considering its price, Swiss movement, 300m water resistance, vintage design cues, and solid finishing, this watch presents a compelling option for those seeking a versatile diver that transitions effortlessly from dressy to sporty.
Le Forban La Rochelaise
Specs:
- Movement: Automatic
- Caliber: Miyota 9039
- Power Reserve: 42 hours
- Case Width: 39 mm
- Lug-to-Lug Distance : 46 mm
- Water Resistance: 150 m
- Price: Around $650
The Rochelaise achieves a delightful balance of vintage appeal and modern reliability. Its 39mm diameter case, with a lug-to-lug of approximately 46mm, ensures it’s suitable for a broad spectrum of wrist sizes, a refreshing change in a market often dominated by larger contemporary dive watches. The “turtle” or cushion-shaped case design echoes the aesthetic of 1960s/70s skin-diver watches, providing character without bulk. Crafted from 316L stainless steel, and featuring a double-domed sapphire crystal, screw-down crown, and internal bidirectional bezel, it transitions effortlessly from land to sea.
A standout feature is the inner rotating bezel, a clear homage to classic “super-compressor” dive watches. The bezel markers, stamped into the metal and then varnished, add noticeable depth and quality to the dial. The dials themselves, available in Sand Grey, Sea Green, and Ocean Blue, boast sunburst finishes and no date window, contributing to a clean, balanced look. Powering the watch is the Miyota 9039 automatic movement, offering hacking functionality and a power reserve of around 42 hours—providing solid reliability for its price point.
However, certain trade-offs are worth noting. The specified water resistance of 150m, while respectable, doesn’t quite match some modern dedicated dive watches offering 200m or more. The bold style and dial color options are excellent for those who appreciate flair, but might be less versatile for those preferring an ultra-neutral piece. Additionally, while the inner bezel layout is elegant, some users might find an external bezel more convenient for timing dive-like intervals. Despite these points, the Rochelaise excels in its offerings: authentic design, good finishing, strong value, and the brand’s French maritime heritage. It stands as a compelling choice for a watch that can bridge weekend adventures with smart-casual evenings, all while carrying a distinctive history and personality.
Baltic Aquascape Dual-Crown Blue
Specs:
- Movement: Automatic
- Caliber: Miyota 9039
- Power Reserve: 42 hours
- Case Width: 39 mm
- Water Resistance: 200 m
- Price: Around $650
From the outset, the Aquascaphe Dual-Crown feels like a thoughtful reinterpretation of the classic mid-century dive watch formula. The 39 mm case diameter hits a sweet spot for wearability on a wide range of wrists, and with a lug-to-lug of about 47 mm and thickness around 11.9 mm it offers a compact yet substantial presence. Constructed from 316L stainless steel, the build feels robust and well finished, with brushed surfaces and polished chamfers that elevate the overall look. The dial, available in sunray-blue or black finishes, exudes a subtle vintage charm while remaining clean and legible — particularly aided by the internal rotating bezel and dual-crown layout.
Functionally, this watch punches above its class. The dual-crown “compressor” style design uses one crown at 2 o’clock to control the bidirectional internal bezel, and another at 4 o’clock to wind and set the time. With 200 m (20 ATM) water resistance, screw-down crowns and a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, it’s a genuine dive-capable piece rather than merely a dress diver look. Inside beats the automatic Miyota 9039 movement — reliable, proven, and with a 42-hour power reserve — which balances performance with value.
Of course, no watch is perfect. While the internal bezel adds elegance and protects from accidental knocks, the bidirectional nature (rather than strictly unidirectional) and the somewhat tight access to the 2 o’clock crown mean this may be less ideal if one intends serious dive use under challenging conditions. Additionally, though the 39 mm size is well suited for many wrists, some users who prefer larger watches or bolder presence might find it modest. And while the movement is very capable, it doesn’t offer the extended reserves or high-end finishing of luxury rivals. That said, for its price point, the Aquascaphe Dual-Crown offers an excellent mix of vintage styling, modern specs, and genuine value. If you’re looking for a versatile dive-inspired watch that works from casual outings to more adventurous use — while still wearing comfortably under a shirt-cuff — this stand-out from Baltic is a strong option.
Christopher Ward C65 Super Compressor
Specs:
- Movement: Automatic
- Caliber: Sellita SW200-1
- Power Reserve: 38 hours
- Case Width: 41 mm
- Water Resistance: 150 m
- Price: Under $1,500
The C65 Super Compressor uniquely blends historical diving mechanics with modern watchmaking, distinguishing itself beyond a mere vintage nod. Its 41mm stainless-steel cushion case (approx. 47.12mm lug-to-lug, 13.05mm thick in early models) offers a substantial yet wearable presence, with polished chamfers adding a refined, mid-century touch. A transparent caseback reveals the “super-compressor” mechanism—a spring-loaded system designed to enhance water resistance with increasing depth, directly linking the watch to its diving heritage.
Functionally, the dial is both playful and capable. A vibrant sunray blue dial, accented by a contrasting orange minute hand and a distinctive second-hand tip, ensures excellent legibility and a sporty aesthetic. The internal rotating bezel, controlled by the upper crown, maintains a sleek, integrated look rather than appearing bulky. Initially, the watch featured a Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve. Later “Elite” versions upgraded to a COSC-certified SW300-1 movement, boasting a 56-hour reserve and improved accuracy. With a water resistance of 150m (15 ATM), it’s well-suited for daily wear and recreational swimming, though it doesn’t match the extreme depth ratings of professional dive watches.
However, as with any piece balancing vintage inspiration with modern practicality, some trade-offs exist. Its 13mm+ thickness and 47mm lug-to-lug dimension give it a noticeable wrist presence, leaning more towards a “tool-watch” feel than an ultra-slim dress watch. While the 150m water resistance is robust, it falls short of modern diver standards (200m+ or helium-escape valves) for extreme depths. The internal bezel and compressor mechanism are historically accurate and visually appealing, but the internal bezel can be less intuitive for underwater timing compared to an external one. Some early batches also reportedly had minor dial alignment inconsistencies, such as slightly off-centre “Super Compressor” text.
In summary: the C65 Super Compressor is an attractive option for those seeking a diver’s watch that combines authentic vintage engineering (a true “super compressor” case), distinctive styling (blue dial, orange accents), and modern mechanics, all offered at a competitive price. It delivers a compelling blend of history, character, and wearability. However, if extreme depth rating or ultra-slim dimensions are your primary concerns, these factors should be considered against your overall priorities.
Dan Henry 1970 Automatic Diver Compressor
Specs:
- Movement: Automatic
- Caliber: NH35
- Power Reserve: 41 hours
- Case Width: 40 mm
- Water Resistance: 200 m
- Price: Under $300
The 1970 is more than a simple timekeeper; it’s a statement piece the moment you wear it. Available in 40mm or 44mm 316L stainless steel cases, it masterfully blends robust construction with vintage aesthetics. Its twin-crown design—one at 2 o’clock for the inner rotating bezel and another at 4 o’clock for time and date adjustments—harks back to classic compressor-style dive watches, but with modern refinements. The internal bezel, protected beneath the crystal, offers reliable dive timing without the bulk or snagging risk of an external bezel.
Legibility is a key feature of the dial, with large hands, bold indexes, high-contrast minute chapter rings, and ample lume ensuring clear visibility in both bright and low-light underwater conditions. This watch was conceived with the “hardcore diver” in mind, echoing an era when pioneering underwater explorers relied on durable, visible, and precise instruments. While contemporary divers might not solely depend on a mechanical watch for depth timing, its 200-meter (20ATM) water resistance provides genuine credibility.
However, a watch that merges retro design with modern standards inevitably involves trade-offs. The 14.8mm case thickness might be noticeable on slimmer wrists. While the reliable Seiko NH35 movement (24 jewels, 41-hour power reserve) is used, some enthusiasts might prefer in-house or higher power reserve calibers. Nevertheless, the 1970 offers exceptional value for its price. Its heritage feel, distinctive design elements like the inner bezel and twin crowns, and its limited edition status—only 1,970 pieces produced—give it character and collectibility. For those seeking a stylish, capable diver’s watch with personality and vintage appeal, the Dan Henry 1970 is an excellent choice.
WRITTEN BY
Maté D
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